Years ago when the online menswear movement was really swinging, the major focus of it was longevity: clothes that would last, not only because they were high quality but also because they were designed in a “classic” way that would age better. That movement coincided with a revival of interest in tailored clothing and the types of classic menswear associated with it (leather shoes, tailored outerwear, sweaters, etc.). That’s when I hitched a ride on the wagon, though I think it was just good timing that my interest in tailoring coincided with that Renaissance in the marketplace.
Of course, all of that about timeless classics is kind of bunk. First of all, tailoring will almost never look ‘timeless’ because it changes all the time—two vents, one vent, wide lapel, narrow lapel, low gorge, high gorge, blah blah blah. You can often tell what era a jacket is from by the fabric, lapels, and fit. I have very distinct negative associations with certain types of fabrics if they feel like they’re from a certain era. But also, if you’re into clothing, it’s unlikely that you will be content with simply buying something and wearing it for many more years. You’re always on the hunt for that next thing, that next “staple” or “grail.”
I’m no different than anyone else in that regard. I have things I want that I’ve told myself are needed in order to have a ‘complete wardrobe,’ and I’ve taken years to work down the priority list to where I am now. I just bought a topcoat, for instance, something I haven’t had for years. But besides trying to build a complete wardrobe, there’s the need to grow, to change, to mature, to learn, to move forward. Those things are healthy, particularly if you find some level of creative satisfaction in a clothing hobby. This is true especially within the larger framework of what types of clothes you even want to wear. Only looking backwards to a supposed golden age of menswear, and rigorously trying to recreate that will get boring and make you look like you’re wearing a costume at a certain point. Evolve, change and move forward as your tastes change.
I’m changing and evolving as I’m embracing a more casual aesthetic since I work at home, and also since I have a baby boy (nearly a toddler now), and also because I’ve got a great wardrobe of tailoring and am interested in expanding outwards. I’m still largely attracted to more refined pieces as opposed to rugged workwear-inspired pieces, but instead of a sport coat I find myself wearing a nice sweater or a field jacket. It feels more natural particularly when carrying a little one around.
Great post! Very introspective! 👍🏻