Here’s what I love about two OCBDs in my closet—one from Drake’s (MSRP $295), one from Spier & Mackay (MSRP $68).
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Shop them both here:
Spier & Mackay light blue OCBD with Italian button-down collar
First, what I love about Drake’s OCBD
Fabric. It’s a perfect weight—not heavy and stiff, but not lightweight. It’s also soft, almost brushed (but it isn’t), and so comfortable.
Vintage details. The box pleat, rear collar button and lack of sleeve placket buttons are nice throwbacks to what makes this historic style so beloved.
The collar shape. It’s the 21st century’s perfected version of the original vision as invented by Brooks Brothers in the 20th century. It’s truly special and looks phenomenal.
The fit is comfortable. It’s straight, but not giant.
What I don’t love about the Drake’s OCBD
Off-the-rack, the sleeves are too short on me for my given neck size, by about .5″ or maybe more.
The price is very high—it’s gone up about 30% since 2020, and even pre-pandemic it was tough to swallow.
What I love about Spier & Mackay’s OCBD
The collar shape. Mine has their “Italian button-down collar shape,” which is a slightly larger version of their default button-down collar. I love its more spread shape, vs the more traditional point-collar shape. Between these two shirts, this is my preference.
The fit. It tapers in the waist, which wears more flatteringly when worn on its own (assuming it fits your body of course).
The clean design. While I go through phases where I want the vintage details sometimes, most of the time I like the cleaner look of no rear pleats and no pocket.
The sizing options. I can get my sleeve length!
The price. $68 is tough to beat. The Drake’s fabric is clearly much nicer, but not 4.3x nicer.
What I don’t love about the Spier & Mackay OCBD
The interlining in the collar, cuffs and placket. It’s a little too stiff.
By comparison to Drake’s, the fabric is a little heavier, stiffer and less soft. It’s not bad, but having both, Drake’s beats it by a mile.
The sleeve placket buttons. I will likely cut these off.
Conclusions
There are obviously other makers in both these price points and in between (Kamakura, hello!). But these two shirts have been getting the most wear when it’s time to put on an OCBD. Let me know which you like more in the comments below!
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I agree with your comments on the OCBD’s. Will add that I buy a half size larger from Drakes. Been buying MTO from Juniors and asking for old school details – no interlining, locker hook, back collar button, buttoned flap chest pocket and, you can get any sleeve length. Comes in three different fits.
Thanks Gus. I want to visit Junior’s shop someday, though it seems unlikely I’ll be in Philly for any reason anytime soon… But perhaps I’ll give his shirt a try online.