After three seasons of wearing small, classy dress watches on dark leather bracelets1, season 4 of Mad Men sees Don Draper putting something different on his wrist: a black-dial steel sports watch (on a steel bracelet). Thematically it reinforces the transition the entire show goes through between seasons 3 and 4—from the splendor of the well appointed Sterling Cooper ad agency (with its name on the building!) to the upstart Sterling Cooper Draper Price offices with its artificial walls and scrappy attitude. One thing’s for sure: the world would not be the same after 1963, both in the show and in the real world.
But this post is about the watch. Don wears a Rolex Explorer (the original, reference 1016; though some commentators believe it has a sapphire crystal, dating it to a period much later than the season is set, 1964-5). Instead of focusing on this particular watch—which has a history so mythologized it rivals a Homerian epic—I bring it up only to make a simple assertion: You want one good watch that’ll go with anything and do everything? Get a black dial steel sports watch.2
The phrase “steel sports watch” conjures a nearly unlimited number of watch types and configurations—chronographs, dive watches, field watches, pilot watches—so in this post I’ll be explaining which ones I think are the most versatile and why.
Literally any of them can be a great one-watch collection (if that’s your intent), or the first one in your growing collection.
The ideal specimen will vary depending on your specific needs and how you wear it, but I do have some advice for what I think most guys would actually get use out of.
[Watch: A few examples of the black dial steel sports watch]
Ideally you want your watch to be wearable with almost anything you wear, for it to be able to do anything you want to do, to not be too flashy or ostentatious, and to have a design that’ll stand the test of time.
Here’s why a black dial steel sports watch fits the bill in so many ways.
First, it’s rugged. No precious metals to worry about getting dinged up or to make it an enticing target for thieves. It won’t stain your wrist like bronze or tarnish like silver, and it won’t corrode.
Second, the stainless steel bracelet will last essentially forever and can be exposed to basically anything without fear of corrosion or consequences. And it perfectly straddles the line between casual and dressy. When worn casually, that bracelet feels capable, masculine, sporty; with a suit, those attributes bring the formality down to earth a bit. It’s the perfect mix of “high” and “low” when worn with a coat and tie. Indeed that’s one of the reasons it holds so much appeal for Don Draper. In his impeccable mid-century suit and tie, the steel bracelet gives his character a bit of an edge.
Third, the black dial is the chameleon of watches. When it’s worn with a casual outfit, it looks rugged; but with a dressier outfit, it feels elegant.
Let’s dive in to particular genres of watches that would fit the bill.
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1. Field watches, sometimes referred to as military watches
Shop field watches
The Rolex Explorer Don wears is more or less in the field watch category. What makes these so great?
First, they’re often fairly small and not overly thick. The original Explorer was 36mm in diameter, then it went to 39mm for a few years, and now it’s back to 36mm. That size will never look too big on any guy’s wrist, but it won’t look too small either.3
Wrist size and personal taste will dictate your preference of course, but generally speaking 40mm or less is a good range to consider. A 40-42mm watch will definitely have a more contemporary feel, since most watches are that big or bigger these days. Something smaller will have a more old-school vibe. It’s up to you what you prefer. My advice when trying on any watch is to look at yourself in a full length mirror with the watch on your wrist; that’ll give you a true idea of how big the watch actually appears. It’s usually much more proportional seen from a distance than you think it is when your arm is 14 inches out in front of your face. As for thickness: generally speaking, anything 13mm or under is unnoticeable; more than that and it may not look totally at home with a tailored outfit.
Second, watches in these categories are uncomplicated. The Explorer has no date window, and no rotating bezel. It has simple hour markers with large 3/6/9 numerals and a sweep second hand. It’s designed to do one thing: tell the time. That simplicity is one factor that I think has helped it continue to stay relevant for decades. All that said, date windows are useful and more numerals are just fine. Go with what you like.
Field watches like the Hamilton Khaki have a lot more going on, with more Arabic numerals and markers. That’s fine and again comes down to preference.
2. Pilot watches
Shop pilot watches, including GMT
Pilot watches have their own history, traditionally being much larger for maximum legibility. Modern ones often run 43mm and up, but there are still choices in the 40mm and smaller range that maintain the spirit of their larger forerunners. Perhaps the most recognized pilots watches are from Longines and IWC. Debatably within the pilot watch category would be the GMT—a watch that has an extra hand with 24-hour markers in addition to its normal 12-hour markers, that let you set the time twice in two (or three!) time zones. The most famous is the Rolex GMT-Master.
3. Dive watches
Add a rotating bezel to one of these simple watches, give it a depth rating of 100m+ and you have yourself a dive watch. Skin divers refer to ones with a lower-but-still-appropriate depth rating (usually around 100m), allowing them to be thinner. Normal ones are 200m+ in depth rating. Either style can be an excellent candidate for the black dial steel sports watch single-piece collection.
In fact, for a typical guy, I think dive watches strike the ideal balance between simplicity and utility. The bezel lets you time things ad hoc by simply rotating it and then glancing down to see if the minute hand has met the bezel’s 12 o’clock marker or not.
Some dive watches can be pretty thick, but getting into that 13mm or less range is still doable.
4. Chronographs
Now we’re getting into some complications. The right chronograph can be a great candidate, but the additional goop on the dial, the pushers and the added thickness are the drags on this category if you want something that will dress up as easily as it will dress down.
The most iconic chronograph is Omega’s Speedmaster Professional, which is the only NASA-certified watch for space travel, and which has been on the moon on the wrists of several astronauts (not to mention in orbit). It is widely regarded as a perfect single-watch collection piece, and I agree with that assessment. The big drawback is the water resistance rating is relatively low, so there is much hand-wringing about getting it near water (Omega says you can swim with it, many people gnash their teeth simply wearing it when it’s raining outside).
5. Classier steel watches that may still count as sports watches but which definitely lean more dressy
This category is the catch-all for watches that don’t quite fit in any of those other categories. Rolex’s Datejust and Oyster Perpetual would be here; they’re not tool watches, but they’re made of steel so they have the DNA of a steel sports watch while being finished in a way that makes them dressier. Omega’s Aqua Terra is another example, or Tissot’s Gentleman in the lower price range.
These are great choices for someone with a more urbane lifestyle, generally speaking. I have an Aqua Terra with a black dial and it’s an excellent everyday, all-around piece; but it’s definitely dressier than my Seamaster Professional or my Bulova chronograph (“the other Moonwatch”). But it’s an outstanding option as a one-watch collection piece, and I generally don’t hesitate to wear it regardless of circumstances save for chores that I know I might bang up my watch.
So that’s a brief rundown of the black dial steel sports watch, why it’s so wearable and appealing, and what types of watches might scratch your personal itch for that single good watch you might be searching after.
Below are links to watches I and others whose taste I trust would recommend in each of those categories. We’ve tried to select ones in a variety of price ranges. You don’t have to spend $4k+ if you don’t want to; or if you want to but can’t right now, it’s totally legitimate to get something less expensive to wear while you save for the grail. I included eBay saved searches because it’s easier to have a saved search there that you come back to to see what’s been newly listed. For watches over $2,000 they automatically include an authentication service. Also included are links to a gray market site, WatchShopping.com, which sells watches originally sold through authorized dealers, then to you somehow. I’m not sure how it works, but they have good prices on everything but the hype brands (Rolex, etc.) and positive reviews online. Also are links to authorized dealers Watches of Switzerland and Mayors Jewelers. Both sell new as well as pre-owned watches from most of the main luxury watchmakers.
What’s your favorite black dial steel sports watch? Are there any good candidates I’m missing from the list below? If so, let me know in the comments!
1In season 1, it was a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox, then in seasons 2 and 3, a Reverso. After season 4’s Explorer, in seasons 5-7 he wore a steel Omega Seamaster Deville, and also a yellow gold one for one brief appearance in season 6. (back)
2You might be saying, “But wait a minute, what about that article you wrote about the ‘one Swiss watch’ wherein you said the Bond Seamaster is the One True Watch?” My answer is that that watch is indeed the one watch I’d likely choose as my single watch, as it was essentially my one watch for 15 years. But if I had no personal attachment to any watch already, and were giving advice to someone who’s simply looking for a good timepiece to wear forever, I’d say go black dial. (back)
3The original Explorer, reference 1016, is highly coveted for its simple sans-serif numerals and subdued design. But being vintage, good luck finding one. Instead, buy the Smith’s Explorer, reference PRS-25. Smith’s is a British watch company that went defunct then was somehow resurrected by a one-man watch brand called Timefactors, and he makes a 1016 homage under the Smith’s name with essentially the same design language. If you like the watch, you can either try to get it secondhand online or wait until he manufactures them and puts them on sale. The sale window is usually a couple hours long on a Sunday around 11am Eastern time and they sell out immediately. (back)
Watches in each category that are good options
Field watches
Lorier Falcon SIII field watch
Hamilton Khaki (eBay saved search) | Hamilton Khaki (new from Mayors) | Hamilton Khaki (new from Watches of Switzerland)
Smiths Everest (PRS-25) (eBay saved search)
Rolex Explorer (gray market from WatchShopping) | Rolex Explorer (eBay saved search) | Rolex Explorer (new at Mayors contact form) | Rolex Explorer (new at Watches of Switzerland)
Tudor Ranger (WoS) | Tudor Ranger (Mayors)
Pilot watches / GMT / Rolex Explorer
IWC Pilot Mark XVIII (new from Mayors) | IWC Pilot Mark XVIII (new from Watches of Switzerland) | IWC Pilot Mark XVIII (eBay saved search)
IWC Pilot 36mm (from Mayors) | IWC Pilot 36mm (from Watches of Switzerland)
Rolex GMT-Master II (WatchShopping)
Rolex Explorer II (gray market Watchshopping) | Rolex Explorer II (new from Watches of Switzerland) | Explorer II (Mayors)
Longines Spirit Zulu time GMT black bezel (new from Mayors)
Longines Spirit Zulu GMT green bezel (new from Watches of Switzerland) | Spirit Zulu GMT black bezel (new from WoS)
Longines Spirit (new from Mayors)
Bell & Ross BR V2-92 (eBay saved search)
Dive watches
Longines Skin diver on eBay | Longines Skin (gray market from WatchShopping)
Longines Heritage Legend (gray market from WatchShopping)
Omega Seamaster Professional 300m on eBay | Seamaster 300m (gray market from WatchShopping) | Seamaster 300m (Mayors) | Seamaster 300m (WoS)
Omega Seamaster 300 heritage (Mayors) | Omega Seamaster 300 heritage (Wos)
Rolex Submariner on eBay | Rolex Submariner brand new
Tudor Black Bay 58 (Mayors) | Black Bay 58 (WoS) | Tudor Black Bay 58 on eBay | Black Bay 58 (gray market WatchShopping)
Tudor Black Bay 41mm (Mayors) | Black Bay 41mm (WoS)
Tudor Pelagos (Mayors) | Pelagos (WoS)
Oris Divers Sixty-Five (Mayors) | Oris Divers Sixty-Five (WoS)
Oris Divers Sixty-Five 36mm (Mayors) | Oris 36mm Diver Sixty-Five (WoS)
Breitling SuperOcean 42mm (Mayors) | Breitling SuperOcean 42mm (WoS)
Seiko SPB143 on eBay | Seiko SPB143 (gray market WatchShopping)
Chronographs
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Hesalite (Mayors) | Speedmaster Moonwatch Sapphire (Mayors)
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Hesalite (WoS) | Speedmaster Moonwatch Sapphire (WoS)
Speedmaster Hesalite (gray market from WatchShopping) | Omega Speedmaster Sapphire (gray market WatchShopping)
Omega Speedmaster Professional (saved search on eBay)
Omega Speedmaster 57 (Mayors) | Speedmaster 57 (WoS)
Bulova Lunar Pilot (the ‘other Moonwatch’)
Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono (Mayors) | Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono (WoS) | Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono (eBay saved search)
Dressier Options
Omega 41mm Aqua Terra 41mm (Mayors) | Aqua Terra 41mm eBay saved search
Omega Aqua Terra 38mm eBay saved search
Rolex Milgauss (gray market WatchShopping)
Rolex Oyster Perpetual (WatchShopping) | Rolex OP (Mayors) | Rolex OP (WOS) | Rolex OP eBay saved search
Rolex Datejust (WatchShopping) | Rolex Datejust (Mayors) | Datejust (WOS) | Rolex Datejust eBay saved search
Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto (eBay)
Tudor 1926 (36 or 39mm) eBay saved search
Tudor “Style” (38mm) eBay saved search
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I agree with everything you’ve said. But I do love the look of a blue-dial steel diver peeping out from under the cuff of a pale blue shirt.
Totally my man. My Seamaster 300m looks so killer with nearly everything I wear in part because nearly everything I wear is navy! 😂
For a more budget-conscious approach, the recent Timex Navi series has been a great option in the dive watch category. I picked up a Navi Ocean with a black face/black bezel on sale for $80. It’s a poor man’s Sub or Black Bay, a good 38MM size, and looks good on any strap (leather, NATO or steel).
https://uncrate.com/timex-navi-ocean-watch/
That looks super cool. Thanks for the link! I have gotten a few ideas for watches I missed from folks, so I’ll add them as they come.
So you’d consider an Aqua Terra to be dressier than an Explorer? Why is that?
Yes, though it isn’t totally cut and dried. The Explorer is a field watch; those giant numerals bring it way down in formality in my view. The Aqua Terra doesn’t tuck into any one category easily, but I’d definitely say it reads dressier in person with its uniform hour markers (plus the way they’re faceted means they catch light in a way that is reminiscent of how a diamond’s facets do the same).
However, the etched dial of the AT do bring the formality level down no doubt (though from a distance, it isn’t super noticeable, particularly the 8500 caliber models); and of course on the other side the modern Explorer’s use of polished surfaces and the existence of a two-tone gold model give away the truth that all modern steel mechanical watches are luxury jewelry pieces.
Thanks. Yeah, I agree, it’s getting into angels on the head of a pin territory.
Great post! I love the Explorer, but it’s not in my price range. I really appreciate all the various options.
I respectfully disagree. A white dialed watch is actually more universal as it also goes with navy blue, where a black dialed watch …less so. Also a sports watch works with most situations, but I hate to see someone wearing a suit with a dive watch (or a field watch). I don’t care if it is a Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, or Blancpain 50 Fathoms, it just isn’t right. (And just because someone does it, doesn’t make it right.)
If you are recommending that someone buy a black dialed sports watch, then they will also need a white dialed dress watch. Something like a Rolex Datejust, Omega Aqua Terra, or Seiko SARB is more universal and can be worn in more casual instances and more dressy instances and fit well with both. I am a huge proponent of the Rolex Buckley dial DJ and the Cartier Santos. Both are nearly universal and make for an excellent 1 watch “collection”.