Brooks Brothers’ bankruptcy and the fate of their North Carolina shirt factory got me thinking about OCBDs. I have a nostalgic, sad disposition about the whole affair that makes me want to buy a few of their OCBDs while the getting is good. Basically, I’d stock up on the blue and white ones.
But then I remember that I like my other OCBDs from other makers more in most respects. The collar roll from Drake’s, Spier & Mackay, Proper Cloth and Kamakura is as good or better than Brooks Brothers. Fabric from those four is as good or better (with Spier you have to order the more expensive oxford custom; Proper Cloth’s is a mixed bag but generally fine). Construction quality is as good or better with Kamakura and Drake’s, with Spier’s and PC being less good but still quite good enough. The Drake’s collar, which is the most similar to Brooks, has a better angle and roll. The Kamakura collar has a sexier spread roll shape. The Spier shirt copies the Kamakura—and if you go custom (Oxford cloth shirts start at $79 custom-made), they have three button-down collar shapes, including Italian-inspired ones with super long points and wide spreads.
So while I like the heritage of the Brooks shirt, the pedigree of it, the feel-good story of a factory on American shores still making the American-invented shirt the same as it was 100 years ago… the couple that I have hanging in my closet are enough. I prefer the style of my other Oxfords more. I’m still sad to see that heritage lost, the factory closed, the local economy decimated, and mourn that loss. So if you’re keen on their shirts, get them while they’re still in stock and before whatever their new owners do to most likely ruin them. But don’t feel bad if you prefer another maker, like me. After all, that’s the essence of why Brooks is bankrupt in the first place.
Here is a link to Drake’s button down shirts.
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