Several years ago, I first heard the name Jake Mueser when David Coggins uttered it during a promotional event for his book Men and Style, at the historic Mercantile Library in Cincinnati. Coggins retold the story of how he came to acquire some very special tweed cloth in Scotland, which he then had “my friend Jake” make into a sportcoat. I had never heard of Jake Mueser, but in the near decade since, he’s steadily grown into a leading name for American tailoring, including a break-out capsule for the West Coast retailer Buck Mason recently.
I write reviews of tailored brands that hit the right chords of style, quality and wearability. But looking back through my archives of reviews, and indeed in everyday conversation when people ask for my recommendations, nearly every brand I’ve written about is overseas. In the modern age of 2-day international shipping, that may not be a problem at the logistical level, but it can be a hassle when it comes to dealing with import duties and processing fees as the price increases above that $800 import threshold.
So it’s a delight to review a brand like J.Mueser, which is the namesake brand of Jake who is a New York City tailor, who made that special bolt of tweed into a jacket for David Coggins all those years ago.
[Shop the fresco suit pictured here and the corduroy one here]
Fit and Style
In tailored clothing, I’ve found that one of the key traits of a tailored jacket that contributes to how I feel about the fit is height and shape of the armhole. Italian brands often have a higher, more rounded shape, while American brands have a lower, more oval shape. Once I experienced the Italian shape, I have never gone back. I like how it fits better, and I find it allows for more freedom of movement without ruining the line of the shoulder when you lift your arms. I also think it looks better from the front at the seam where the sleeve attaches to the body of the jacket, though exactly what the difference is, is hard to pinpoint.
This is one reason I haven’t reviewed many brands whose primary target is America. Even made-in-Italy jackets, made for American clientele, will sometimes still have the lower, oval armhole in their pattern, and like I said—I can’t go back. I admit this is a personal taste thing. Glenn who runs the made-to-measure company Junior’s said he prefers the classic American shape, as he just never got used to the other.
I also prefer the lighter construction of Italian jackets, including how the shoulders are padded (or not). And the flourishes Italians created like the boat-shape pocket (barchetta) bring me joy.
J.Mueser’s ready-to-wear clothing is made in Italy, with a design that’s uniquely charming—not Italian but not American either. Yes it has a barchetta pocket, light construction and minimal shoulder padding. But in comparison to the typical Italian style, you find a lower gorge, a deep back vent, a roped sleevehead and a trouser cut that flies close to being a 70s flare without going all the way. It’s super cool. Oh and yes, the armholes are nicely high to provide that Italian feel I so love.
These are the real deal in terms of quality construction, too, by the way. In terms of handwork, we’re talking button holes, bar tacks, any pick stitching on the lapels or elsewhere (the normal dead giveaway for machine stitching), the attachment of the sleeves underneath, the collar, and the lining as well. In other words, for a garment made in Italy, you’re paying a price that’s more than justified in its workmanship and construction.
Fit-wise, my normal size of 42R fit well off the rack. I’d describe the shoulder and chest as fitting closely, not a roomy or drape-y fit. The alterations I’d have done would be fairly typical: a slight trim of the jacket waist, lengthening the sleeves a touch, easing out the waist, seat and crotch a bit, and probably shortening the inseam by an inch. Jake told me that if you buy one of his jackets or suits in the Waverly collection (which comprises most of their RTW garments; they’re full-canvas, made-in-Italy), you are welcome to ring them up for a video chat to discuss fit, and they’ll happily make whatever adjustments needed, free.
Many brands do alterations on the house, but if you’re ordering remote over the internet, you’ll be responsible for the tailoring costs locally. So it’s quite swell that Jake offers to make those adjustments, even remotely.
Pricing is higher than I’ve written about in the past (though Ring Jacket’s pricing has creeped up, particularly via The Armoury to be roughly on par, and of course Drake’s is charging these same prices but for, to my knowledge, half-canvas tailoring, largely machine-made), but consider the promise of alterations and the lack of dealing with import hassles. It’s absolutely worth the price from the quality perspective. You have full-canvas construction, with loads of handmade details, made with quality from the best mills you’d expect. Also consider the charm of the house style, which is usually underrated in reviews of clothing on the internet. Good design and a point of view is worth something!
Jake and I had a short conversation where he answered some of my questions, and talked a bit about his background as a tailor as well as his business. He filled in the charming story of that bolt of tweed that David Coggins got his hands on those years ago, too.
Thanks so much to Jake for his time, and for sending me these two suits on loan for a week to write about. Please go check them out, and if you’re in NYC, stop by their charming shop at 19 Christopher Street.
[Shop the fresco suit pictured here and the corduroy one here]
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