Chinos (or khakis as so many simply call them) deserve their spot in the pantheon of great menswear staples that started as military-issue garments, then worked their way into public life.
But like so many other things, they’ve been used and abused a lot these past 8 decades. Mall brands coming out with every color and fit of chinos imaginable, from giant fits down to extra-slim fits with crazy amounts of stretch. Should extra-slim-fit chinos really exist? Someone once showed me a picture of chinos with a hem that was as tight as a pair of sweatpants, and asked me for help finding something similar for her boyfriend. In good conscience, I couldn’t do it.
But here’s what’s kind of crazy: If you want to find a consistent, high-quality maker of chinos in tried-and-true, good-taste fabric, where do you turn? It’s amazing how hard it is for me to be able to recommend a go-to maker of good chinos that exist at a level above the mall brands.
But then my friend Zach turned me onto Jack Donnelly. It’s a relatively young brand, which makes chinos in the USA. They have four fits that should satisfy most people. And they make a staple cotton twill khaki that if you close your eyes and think of the word “khaki,” is exactly what comes to mind.
I asked Gregg Donnelly, the founder of the company, if he’d loan me a pair in each of their four fits to be able to compare them for you, my dear readers. He happily obliged, and also sent me pairs in their other two core fabrics: their dressier West Point twill, and their poplin.
I’ll break down the fits below, but first, here’s my concise review, followed by a video interview we did which you shouldn’t miss!
Fabric
Gregg dives into great detail on these fabrics in our video interview below, but at a high level, here’s a breakdown of each of the main fabrics they make.
The classic twill is great. As I mentioned above, it is the definition of what the word “khaki” means. It is a medium-weight 100% cotton twill in a shade of tan that is the textbook definition of khaki. It’s milled in Georgia (the Southern US state). There was a time when I preferred other colors for my chinos—I often defaulted to “British Khaki”, for its slightly darker color and richer hue. But the classic is a classic for a reason. He also sells them in navy, which is the easy go-to alternative and has plans to expand the color palette in the future.
The West Point twill is their latest addition to the collection. Gregg explains, “It’s a more ‘refined’ twill with a tighter weave. It also has a nice sheen finish that will fade over time a la a classic officer chino from the WWII era. Made in USA / Milled in Japan.” Compared to the classic twill, it’s stiffer with a smoother hand. I’m very picky about clothes that have any kind of sheen. But after trying these on in the type of outfit I’d wear them with, I was won over. If you want to wear chinos with a tailored jacket, the west point twill is your fabric.
The poplin surprised me. I’ve had poplin shorts from Brooks Brothers in the past, and I really didn’t like them. They showed sweat more easily, they had a paper-y hand and a stiffness that never softened. However, this fabric is significantly nicer. Gregg suggested I wash these to bring out the best quality of the poplin, which I did. They softened right up, though they retain a little bit of structure. But in my time trying them out, they wore noticeably cool compared to the twills. This fabric is milled in South Carolina.
In addition to the staple fabrics, there are small batch projects. These are interesting fabrics that Gregg does in short runs, including in their 5-pocket model. Things like Japanese denim, selvedge khaki and other interesting fabrics.
Design
Jack Donnelly’s khakis hew to a tried and true design. Flat front, with belt loops. These have on-seam pockets, and the waistband is a tall 2 inches. One-button closure, with a zipper (thankfully—I ain’t got time for button flies). They come un-hemmed, so you can make them the perfect length (have the hem line sewn at 1.5” at least to match the casual aesthetic; for the West Point Twill, you could do a blind hem, or even turn-up cuffs).
My only point of contention are the on-seam pockets. They’re harder to get your hands into, and are much more likely to bow outward if the pants fit you a little snug. I asked Gregg why he chose on-seam pockets and he said it’s simply a dedication to the original design of military chinos he grew up admiring.
Fit
Jack Donnelly offers four fits. As I tried them on I made a mental association with them:
01 Relaxed: “I’ve just returned home from my WWII deployment. Thank God we’ve defeated the Japanese, now let’s have 6 babies and drink lots of dry martinis!”
02 Straight: “I’ve just returned home from Vietnam. Oh God, please help me un-see what I’ve seen. At least these khakis are high-quality.”
03 Tapered: “I’ve just come home from my Afghanistan deployment and discovered Grandpa’s chinos in the closet, but boy these fit big, let’s have them tapered and I can wear them to meet up with my friends from the veteran support group.”
04 Slim: “I’ve just discovered the history of military chinos on my favorite menswear blog in the year 2011, but the real things fit way too big; give me low-rise, slim fit!”
Of the four fits, 02 and 03 fit my lifestyle the best. 02 straight is the fit I’d go for in a pair I’d wear casually, and 03 the fit I’d wear dressed up (particularly in the West Point twill).
The 01 is not a fit I’d personally go for, but in today’s culture which has swung back to big fits (J.Crew’s giant fit chinos being a bellwether of a somewhat mainstream embrace of larger pants), don’t overlook Jack Donnelly’s 01 fit.
The 04 is a fit that can look good on a guy with a skinny build. On me, they’re too slim, and I have come to prefer a higher rise.
Value
Jack Donnelly is a fantastic value. That they offer four fits consistently in the staple khaki twill fabric is a lifeline for someone who wants to upgrade from the mall brands into something nicer. This is an authentic upgrade in every way. It is not a fashion brand charging more because they can, with dubious quality. They use quality fabrics, quality make, and every detail is considered with authenticity in mind.
The overall make and construction is high-quality. However the buttonholes have a somewhat sloppy execution. It’s a little jarring because all the other stitching you find on the garments is consistent and professional. The buttonholes won’t begin unraveling or failing, I don’t think, but aesthetically it is noticeable.
Considering their USA make, this price point is more than fair.
So if you’re looking for quality, staple chinos, I highly recommend Jack Donnelly.
Now if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to have a dry martini.
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Post-Script, the fit pics
