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New Shoes and the Old Polo vs. Snuff Suede Debate

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Last November, I brought up split toe bluchers as a sort of under-the-radar fourth option of dress shoe that has consistent but not universal approval within the menswear crowd, but which hasn’t broken through to the mainstream (like double monks did).

And after about a decade of admiring split toe shoes, I finally bought a pair: these Polo suede ones, model 757 by Carmina on the “Soller” last from Gentlemen’s Footwear in Pasadena. I happened upon their “final pairs” sale page, and saw my size in stock of this shoe. Mercifully, they fit well. I’ve always found split toe shoes to cut an attractive shape on the foot. I’m wondering why it took me so long to buy a pair.

Years ago I recalled reading Stephen Pulvirent (just before he joined Hodinkee) explain that out of the two main mid-brown suede colors—snuff suede and polo suede (no relation to the company)—he saw snuff as being more wearable. Snuff suede is a more neutral hue of brown, with perhaps just a little more green in the underlying color make-up, while polo is obviously much more red. That red tone makes them more visually striking and, according to Stephen’s recollection of a Hardy Amies opinion, “naff and loud.”

I’ll put that theory to the test with these shoes. I might’ve been hesitant if this were my first pair of suede shoes, but as it happens I own half a dozen. Of those, my number one and number two most worn pairs over the past 6 years are both snuff suede, with the third in line being a pair of tan suede loafers.

Before buying these, I asked around for input and also looked for photos of polo suede shoes online. In the photos I found, they never jumped out at me or looked too red. So for a little bit of variety’s sake, I figured these would be worth a shot. I ordered a belt to wear with them from Meermin (the best value in leather belts, btw).

And to be honest, what I wear 95% of the time anyhow will look great with them: off-white and mid-wash denim, check. Every shade of gray flannel trouser plus off-white flannels in the winter, check. Only certain shades of tan or khaki might clash depending on the underlying color tones.

I expect they’ll be just as versatile and wearable as snuff suede is. I’ll report back with fit pics nonetheless.

Scope out that other post about split toes for various options at different price points.

Thank you to Steve at Gentlemen’s Footwear for the excellent service.

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit ;-)  Thanks!)

If you’re just getting into tailored menswear and want a single helpful guide to building a trend-proof wardrobe, buy my eBook. It’s only $5 and covers wardrobe essentials for any guy who wants to look cool, feel cool and make a good impression. Formatted for your phone or computer/iPad so it’s not annoying to read, and it’s full of pretty pictures, not just boring prose. Buy it here.

Old, somewhat faded snuff suede chukka books with my favorite slim-straight dark wash jeans.
My new polo suede split toe shoes with the same jeans.
Spier & mackay custom reverse stripe shirt, eidos navy silk jacket and cotton tie, Spier & mackay cotton linen trousers and Carmina polo suede split toe bluchers

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