SuitSupply vs. Isaia? Satisfaction In the Un-Quantifiable

Do you tend to be a brand loyalist, or do you shop around for whoever has the thing that strikes your fancy?

When it comes to menswear, I think the tendency of men is to shop until they find the maker, brand or specific item that suits them well, then just stick with that because finding it in the first place is usually a pain. Fit issues, quality questions, and pricing all make finding a garment maker that you love and which fits your style, body and budget a hassle. 

Learning about wristwatches lately has gotten me thinking about it. I’ve been binge watching YouTube accounts of watch enthusiasts. My two favorite are Jenni Elle for her overall joyful disposition, and Watchfinder & Co. for its superb production values (Jenni’s no slouch either). One thing I’ve found hilarious is the ubiquity of this basic formula:

Has the Rolex [insert model here] been finally dethroned by [insert challenger brand here]?

If you’re not into the luxury watch industry, one prominent story of the the last decade or so is that Rolex is highly desired by many, but the more popular models like the Submariner are impossible to actually buy. They have waiting lists months and even years long, so for those who are lucky enough to get to buy one at MSRP ($9,000+), it’s extremely tempting to simply turn around and sell it at 1.5x or more online. And people will pay that, instead of wait.

Why?

Brand loyalty. Cachet. Marketing. Artificial scarcity. Rolex is a brand recognized for quality, distinction and good taste the world over; they know it, and they manipulate their supply to maintain those illusory qualities.

Every YouTube video that asks the question of whether a Grand Seiko bests a Rolex, for instance, essentially comes to the same conclusion: that the Seiko is better in nearly every way—it’s as good or better quality than the Rolex, with as good or better fit and finish, with better technology, it’s half the price (depending on the watch), and you can buy one whenever you want at MSRP from any authorized dealer—but…

And what comes after that “but” is that brand cachet, that loyalty, that mystique, that artificial scarcity giving them an “investment piece” quality about them. It makes for loyal customers (or aspiring customers; or frustrated customers waiting years just to buy the things).

Back to menswear: how clothes fit and the silhouette they cut on your body is an additional dimension not really applicable in the wristwatch hobby. But some of those questions about what makes certain brands and garments special still come into play in much the same way. So for instance, I have a SuitSupply blazer that’s full canvas, with a natural shoulder, spalla camicia and grinze shoulder detailing, in a beautiful wool/silk/linen blend hopsack fabric from a famed Italian mill, all with the lightweight construction I’ve come to love from Italian tailoring. But it was made in China. So there’s no logical reason it should be any less desirable on paper than the ones I own that were made in Italy. And yet…

The Italian jackets I own from Eidos have an extra layer of satisfaction for me. There is a better story behind them; an entire country’s artisanal expertise brought to bear, and the future of that skillset hanging in the balance. In this case, it’s not just that particular brand I feel that sense of affection for, but rather a cultural connection to the inventors of something I love. They deserve support because without them, it wouldn’t exist.

And you know what, I find much greater satisfaction in owning and wearing articles of clothing that have an inspiring or unique story I can plug into. The materialistic way of life we all live is hard to resist when there are so many beautiful, amazing things to buy and wear, collect, then flip and sell to someone else so you can buy the next new thing. But that old cliche about buying less, but buying better, is true. And I have concluded that what constitutes better isn’t necessarily only the technical details on the page or even the fit (those things can be copied and reproduced by anyone sufficiently motivated), but the story that you can plug into and the connection you can make with its artisans and their history.

That’s not to say the other labels won’t create their own story and have a place in this club. Seiko is just as old as Rolex, and those who buy the Grand Seiko (their ultra-premium handmade line of watches) will tell you the quality is outstanding. Similarly, a company like Ring Jacket out of Japan makes a product inspired by Neapolitan tailoring, but to a quality level as good or better, and I love them. Same goes for some of the bespoke and made to measure companies started in the recent past in Hong Kong like Prologue or The Anthology.

At the end of the day what brings the greatest satisfaction is how any given piece of clothing or accessory weaves its way into your own life. The memories you make with it—maybe how you came to buy it while on a special trip or after a special occasion; or the good times you have wearing it that you recall when you put it on or see photos from that time. Ultimately, cool clothes or watches or anything are not an end to themselves, but should be things you wear to enjoy while living a life of joy, grace and adventure.

Here are some makers whose history I’ve connected with and appreciate in the clothing realm.

• Sartoria Carrara x No Man Walks Alone line of tailoring, which utilizes a factory in Tuscany that has retained the skill sets of the region
  • (Add Brunello Cucinelli for probably the ultimate expression of this mindset though I have no personal experience with them; add the Savile Row tailors for their fighting the good fight; and there are plenty of other great Italian makers, too)
• Drake’s, which manufactures ties, shirts, scarves and pocket squares in England
• Anglo-Italian, which cherishes the same values and makes their house label in Italy by skilled artisans
• Ring Jacket, which has created its own story of quality tailoring made in Japan
• Crockett & Jones, making high quality shoes in England
• Alden, making high quality shoes in America 
• Brooks Brothers, which made suits, ties and shirts in America (sadly bankrupt now, having sold those factories off, so get the goods while they’re still available)
• Red Wing boots, still made in America
• Tweed from Magee, Harris Tweed, Abraham Moon & Sons, or any of the other traditional Scottish or Irish mills still making it like they used to.
• And since we’re talking watches, I’m an Omega guy

What are your favorite brands, makers, or even cultural traditions to support?

(Help support this site! If you buy stuff through my links, your clicks and purchases earn me a commission from many of the retailers I feature, and it helps me sustain this site—as well as my menswear habit ;-)  Thanks!)