SuitSupply introduced a roomier, more dramatic tailoring cut called Roma earlier this year. I first caught sight of it on a watch dude I follow on Instagram, and felt that it punched way above its weight considering how great it looked on him.
So I ordered a Roma-cut tobacco linen suit to see how I liked it myself and whether I would recommend it.
The short answer is: yes, this is a great-looking suit, and the Roma cut itself is a win for Italian tailoring aficionados. The wider lapels, roomier fit and longer body length are a boon; the trousers are high-rise and roomier as well, making them more comfortable (and more stylish—get some more drape in your clothing!).
The fit is a little more generous than their normal fit but not enough that you should size down. I ordered a 42R based on their measurements, and probably would take 44R then get alterations if I were buying this for real. I take 44R in SuitSupply’s other cuts. I’d want the little extra room in the chest, and the trouser waist was very snug on me.
One thing I do not like on this Roma cut are the armholes—they are lower, which I do not like. Most likely an attempt to make it more “comfortable,” and of course it depends on your physiology, but lower armholes just ruin a jacket’s range of motion without making it more comfortable.
The key question to answer is whether the price is worth it in the marketplace that exists today.
This suit is half-canvas. It’s made in China*. It’s $799.
Consider the key competition with a similar Italian design:
Spier & Mackay’s Neapolitan cut cigar linen suit, made from Irish linen by mill Spence Bryson, is $598. Also half-canvas, also made in China.
Natalino’s linen suit separates (they have no direct cigar/tobacco comparative product this season) come to $652. Also half-canvas, but made in Naples.
Cavour’s Model 2 suit retails for $1140, but is on sale for basically the same price of $798. It’s full-canvas, and also made in China.
Considering the quality—half-canvas, machine-made in China—the full retail of SuitSupply’s Roma suit is hard to justify in my mind. The fully-cut sleeve buttonholes on their jackets are also a potential problem depending on your own sleeve length.
My conclusion: Spier & Mackay’s Neapolitan cut is the better choice. The quality is the same, the visual aesthetic is nearly the same, it’s cheaper, they use the same or similar great fabrics from world-renowned mills, and I like the fit better.
Equally good, or a little better is Natalino, which is made in Italy to the same quality and has a design that’s a bit more serious.
Read my reviews of tailored clothings—including these three, plus many more—here.
Read my guide to tobacco linen here.
*Made in China is not a negative nor a positive for me. Some of the best tailoring in the world is made in China. You cannot ignore the cost of a garment compared to its origin of make and the relative cost of labor, however. Assuming good wages and working conditions—something I think SuitSupply does well—I have no problems with Chinese-made clothing.
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Great blog and photos here MItchell !
(Discovered your site via the article you wrote in the latest UCG-Compass Check).
I usually order suits off of Jos A. Banks, (I like the ‘Traveller’ series).
Our family will be over in Italy : Florence & Rome following FOT this year…
Will have to check out some menswear while we’re there-
Regards, Stephen / Vail – (Beit Hanina Summer 75′ with your Dad)
I also think the new model looks great, and it could be good for us Europeans that don’t have access to S&M – most other brands can’t rival the variety that SS and S&M have in cloths.
Unfortunately, I think SS jackets *already* had a bit too low armholes (except perhaps the Jort models) so even lower is definitely not something I’d want. I’d personally also taper the trousers slightly, which is funny given that all SS trouser fits used to be too trim for me at about 18.5cm or less, and now somehow this one is too wide, I think at 23cm, while I’d go for a 20cm hem instead.
I also never felt SS jackets were short to be honest – I am short myself, but the 2 jackets I have are pretty much comparable to Cavour in size IT48.